Wildlife Photography 101: The Basics (and Cornerstones) for Creating Your Best Wildlife Photos

Hi friends, I'm coming back with a new podcast episode, specifically on the cornerstones of great wildlife photography. This article summarizes the key points, but as always, you can listen to the full episode here: The Wild Photographer - Wildlife Photography 101.

Also, before we get into the nitty gritty I wanted to turn you onto my brand new photo portfolio website, where you can see my favorite shots from over 20 years of capturing nature in all its beauty. I like to think that simply looking at other nature photography is one of the most powerful ways to inspire you in your own photographic journey. So, even if you don't plan to buy anything, just seeing what I've captured over the years is likely to be of great help.

Finally, as always, I want to give a shout out to those who support the podcast...Art Storefronts and LensRentals.com. If you use promo code WILD with Art Storefronts you'll get free website setup and WildPhotographer15 at LensRentals for 15% off. Two really awesome deals.

Ok, let's get into it...

Wildlife photography is one of the most rewarding forms of photography. Whether you’re using a smartphone, a point-and-shoot, or a high-end DSLR or mirrorless system, there’s something deeply satisfying about capturing a moment in the wild—a moment you can never truly replicate.

In this guide, we’ll walk through the key cornerstones of wildlife photography: composition, aperture, shutter speed, focus, ISO, and editing. These aren’t just technical settings; they’re the artistic tools that let you turn fleeting encounters with wildlife into compelling, lasting images.

Composition: Your First and Most Powerful Tool

No matter what gear you’re using, composition is king. The way you frame your subject will often matter more than the camera in your hands. While there are countless approaches, here are the core principles worth mastering—and sometimes breaking.

The Rule of Thirds

This classic compositional guide involves dividing your frame into a tic-tac-toe grid—two horizontal and two vertical lines—then placing your subject on one of the four intersections. For wildlife, it’s often best to position the animal so it’s facing into the open space in the frame. This creates balance, visual tension, and a natural sense of movement.

The Phi Grid

A refinement of the rule of thirds, the phi grid shifts those intersections slightly inward to align with the golden ratio (about 1.6:1). It’s a subtle difference, but it can give your images a more natural and harmonious feel, echoing patterns found throughout nature.

Exaggerated Composition

Sometimes rules are meant to be broken—intentionally. Placing your subject far from the expected intersections, such as in the bottom tenth of the frame, can emphasize scale and grandeur. This works beautifully for wide, dramatic landscapes where the sky or environment plays as much a role as the animal itself.

Leading Lines

Whether it’s a winding river, a line of trees, or the curve of a shoreline, leading lines guide the viewer’s eye directly to your subject. They don’t have to be straight—they just need to flow naturally toward your focal point.

Wildlife in the Landscape

Zooming all the way in is tempting, but sometimes zooming out tells a richer story. A small polar bear against the vast Arctic tundra, or a distant elephant under an expansive sky, can be more powerful than a tight portrait. This approach also opens opportunities for leading lines and exaggerated composition.

While I could have easily filled the frame with this polar bear, the environment really adds a lot to this shot

Aperture: Depth of Field Decisions

Aperture controls how much of your scene is in focus. In wildlife photography, it’s often a choice between isolating your subject or showing its environment.

Shallow Depth of Field (Portrait Look)

Using a low f-number (like f/2.8 or f/4) blurs the background and makes your subject stand out. This works well for close-up portraits, where you want the viewer’s attention on the animal’s face or eyes.

Deep Depth of Field (Landscape Look)

A higher f-number (like f/8 or f/11) keeps more of the scene in focus—ideal for wildlife-in-landscape shots. It allows both the subject and the background to be sharp, telling a broader environmental story.

Aperture for Shutter Speed

Sometimes your aperture choice is dictated by the need for a faster shutter speed to freeze motion, especially in low light. Opening the aperture (lower f-number) lets in more light, enabling you to shoot faster.

Shutter Speed: Different Speeds for Different Needs

Shutter speed determines how motion is rendered—frozen in place or artistically blurred.

Freezing Motion

For stationary or slow-moving animals, 1/250 to 1/320 of a second may be enough. For moderate movement, aim for 1/500 to 1/800. For fast action like birds in flight or predators running, 1/1600 or faster ensures sharp results.

Intentional Motion Blur

Slowing the shutter (1/50, 1/20, or even 1/10) can convey motion artistically. Imagine a cheetah with blurred legs but a sharp face, or polar bears sparring with motion in their paws. This technique adds energy and mood—just don’t use it for every frame.

Notice the blurred water effect? This is achieved by using a 1/30th of a second for my shutter speed.

ISO: The Balancing Act

ISO adjusts your camera sensor’s sensitivity to light. The higher the ISO, the more you can shoot in low light—but the trade-off is increased grain or “noise.”

Keep It Low When Possible

Lower ISO values (100–400) yield the cleanest images. Older cameras may start showing noticeable noise at ISO 800–1600, while newer models can handle 3200–6400 with minimal issues.

Manual Mode + Auto ISO

A powerful approach is to set both your aperture and shutter speed manually for creative control, while letting the camera automatically adjust ISO. This way, you get the settings you want without missing the moment.

Focus: Where and How to Lock On

If your focus is off, no amount of editing will save the image. In wildlife photography, focusing correctly—especially on the eyes—is non-negotiable.

Single vs. Continuous Autofocus

• Single AF (One-Shot): Locks focus when you half-press the shutter. Ideal for still or slow-moving subjects.

• Continuous AF (AI Servo / AF-C): Continuously refocuses on moving subjects. Great for action shots but riskier if your subject moves unpredictably across the frame.

  
  

Tracking Autofocus

Modern mirrorless cameras offer animal or eye tracking autofocus. When it works, it’s a game-changer—especially for fast-moving wildlife.

Always Focus on the Eyes

The eyes are the connection point. If they’re out of focus, the shot feels flat and lifeless.

Editing: The Final Baton in the Relay

Think of the photography process as a 4x100 relay race—editing is the anchor leg that can bring your image across the finish line stronger than it started. It can’t fix everything, but it can elevate a good photo into something exceptional.

Subject Masking

Tools like Lightroom’s “Select Subject” allow you to adjust your subject separately from the background. You can brighten the animal, darken the surroundings, or subtly shift colors to make the subject pop.

White Balance

Adjusting white balance can correct color casts from unusual lighting or creatively enhance mood. You can even apply separate white balance settings to the background and subject.

Sharpening

Selective sharpening—especially on the eyes—draws attention where you want it. Avoid global sharpening that can make backgrounds look harsh.

Radial Filters

Radial filters create natural-looking local adjustments, often blending more smoothly than brush strokes or hard-edged masks.

I intentionally darkened the immediate foreground to provide the necessary emphasis on my subject.

Bringing It All Together

Wildlife photography is equal parts technical skill, artistic vision, and patience. Mastering the fundamentals—composition, aperture, shutter speed, ISO, focus, and editing—gives you the tools to make the most of every fleeting encounter.

Start with the rules, experiment with breaking them, and above all, stay present in the moment. The more you practice, the more instinctive these choices become, and the more your images will resonate—both with you and with those who see them.

Once again, I'd be delighted to "see" you in the audience of my podcast, so if you like what you're reading, you can listen with a lot more detail and examples in this episode on The Wild Photographer - Wildlife Photography 101.

Thanks for reading!

Court